After a leisurely breakfast we set off for Wat Si Muang. It is a beautiful, everyday busy, working temple. I asked Was, our tour guide, how the communist government viewed Buddhism. He said that the state integrates Buddhist traditions to promote cultural and social stability. For example, Monks actively contribute to social development, teaching literacy, dispensing traditional medicine, and maintaining community temples. At the same time reconciling the spiritual and karmic foundations of Buddhism with the materialist framework of Marxism is an ongoing challenge for the government.
Next we drove out of town to Buddha Park, a famous open-air sculpture park located alongside the Mekong River. It is renowned for its surreal collection of over 200 weathered concrete sculptures that blend Buddhist and Hindu traditions.
The Park was created in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a charismatic priest-shaman who sought to integrate Hindu and Buddhist mythology into a unified philosophy. Interestingly, Sulilat was not a trained sculptor; the works were cast in concrete by his followers using raw volunteer labor. Following the 1975 revolution, Sulilat fled across the Mekong River to Thailand.
The next stop was Cope, a charity started to assist those maimed by bombs left behind by the American (Vietnamese) War. Very moving – Laos is the most bombed country in the world per head of population, mostly cluster bombs (shown in the 2nd photo)
Freezing again in the night sleeper carriages. I had in all the clothes I wore on the journey from Ophir.
Photos
In the morning a stop and off for emigration from Thailand while the Thai train engine was swapped for a Laotian one
Getting through immigration at Vientiane was very easy. I changed my leftover 600 baht (about $30) for 406,500 kip (I know – so much money) and off to the hotel for brekkie and an early check in. I really the laidback atmosphere in Vientiane, with 1 million people is like a small town compared to the others we have been to. The hotel, too, is small and intimate
I decided on an afternoon off rather than sightseeing and did some washing . Beer Lao o’clock and then off for and an interesting dinner with bth nFrench (mushroom soup) and Lao dishes
History and Politics
Our local guide Was refers to Laos as a communist country but it feels pretty laidback. The Lao people had their fair share colonisation- from Siam and then the French and war in the 1960s and 70s -liberation from the French colonisers and then as allies of the Vietnamese against American imperialism (Was calls this the liberation war).
While it has an interesting pre-history, Laos per se exists from the thirteenth-century. The Lao kingdom of Lan Xang was unified kingdom from 1357 to 1707, when it became a subordinate state to Siam. It then came under French rule in 1893.
Laos was not occupied by the Japanese and had a brief stint as an independent state during WWII, Afterwards a civil war broke out between the Royal Lao Government (RLG) and the Pathet Lao (Lao Communist Party) and then there was a brief restoration of French colonial rule. During the First Indochina War (Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos against the French) Laos experienced its own distinct struggles that reflected local conditions while being fundamentally shaped by regional Vietnam offensives of 1953–54. While independence came after the Franco-Lao Treaty in 1953, the Viet Minh established training camps for Lao revolutionaries, provided military support, and helped organize political infrastructure that would eventually become the Lao Communist Party. Laos became a crucial logistical corridor for Viet Ming supplies defining its political destiny and establishing the basic political and military dynamics that would characterize the Lao conflict for the next two decades: Vietnamese support for revolutionary forces, royal government dependence on external patrons, and the transformation of Lao territory into a battlefield for larger regional conflicts.
In 1962,a coalition government between RLG and the Pathet Lao was formed under the leadership of Prince Souvanna Phouma. The coalition continued to govern while communists and non-communists vied for control of the outlying provinces of the country.
Though officially neutral, Laos was a major proxy battleground during the Vietnam War. North Vietnam used its jungles for the Ho Chi Minh Trail, and the U.S. conducted a massive covert bombing campaign, making Laos the most heavily bombed country in history.
After the fall of South Vietnam in 1975, the Pathet Lao established the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, ending the monarchy. After decades of post-war isolation, Laos began limited economic reforms and opened up to foreign investment and Laos today is one of the world’s few openly communist states, relying heavily on agriculture, foreign aid, and ambitious hydropower projects along the Mekong River to boost its economy. The system, overall, is sound and there is no real inner opposition to speak of and the improving economy has solidified the legitimacy of the state party. The integration into the regional and global systems and successful ASEAN Presidencies in 2004 and 2016 strengthened the international legitimacy of the system.
There are however, political issues -of human rights, press freedom and suppression of difference which have the potential to affect the future of the country.
Day 6: Bangkok A small blog today. After a rather sleepless night we were met by our guide at Bangkok station. The guide has a pole with Thai fish on it.
Photo
I think most us were amused and slightly appalled. First stop a coffee, a coconut smoothie (yum) and a delicious fruit platter and then the others minus me went to see Wat Pho (I visited it a few years ago).
I stayed at the coffee shop in the air conditioning and caught up with a bit of (paid) work We went across the river in a small ferry to Donchubari and Wat Arun. It was extremely hot and humid so that was short lived.
After a small lunch and rest then a very firm Thai massage. Blissed out from being pummeled to death. Dinner later and early night. Best sleep so far on the trip
History and Politics
Bangkok began as a small trading post and village on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River during the 15th-century Ayutthaya period which eventually grew and became the site of two capital cities, Thonburi in 1767 and Rattanakosin in 1782. Bangkok was at the heart of the modernization of Siam during the late 19th century, as the country faced pressures from the West. The city was at the centre of the country’s political struggles throughout the 20th century, as Siam—later renamed Thailand—abolished absolute monarchy, adopted constitutional rule, and underwent numerous coups and several uprisings. In 2009 protests against the government escalated in Bangkok. Fighting erupted between anti-government protesters, the People’s Alliance fur Democracy (a reactionary, pro-monarchist group) and the general population. A state of emergency was issued for Bangkok and surrounding areas and the government denounced the anti-government protesters as “national enemies”
In a pre-dawn raid on Monday April 13, Thai soldiers in full combat kit fired live rounds and training rounds from automatic weapons to clear protesters from the Din Daeng intersection near the Victory Monument in central Bangkok, injuring at least 70 people. Violent clashes at numerous locations in Bangkok continued while arrest warrants were issued for Thaksin and 13 protest leaders. Surrounded by the military, many protest leaders eventually gave in to police on 14 April 2009, ending the violence.
Short blog today, as it was a day completely based on travelling. We were up early this morning to catch the train to Padang Besar at the Malaysian border – the first of 3 trains that will get us to Bangkok tomorrow morning. This leg is 51/2 hours. So far, the trains have been fantastic – very modern with aircon (21.0C) and comfortable, with plugs for your phone and laptop. They also travel at a good speed (at time of writing, 127kmh).
We have been told to bring enough food for the entire day and night as the train restaurants after the border are allegedly dreadful. So, leftovers of radish cake (delicious) from last night’s dinner, some M&S chippies (yes, they have an outlet in KL) and a pot noodle from the mall next to the hotel, and theft from the breakfast buffet (a croissant, 2 pain au chocolat and a rice parcel in banana leaves) is my very cosmopolitan lot. I also have some lovely sambal in a small jar – a present from Sia to brighten up the noodles and the radish cake.
The trip to the border was uneventful, but we then had a boring 5 hour wait in a very hot unconditioned station for the next (small) train to take us to Hat Yai. Eventually we got on this tiny, old-fashioned train with open windows, and it was the highlight of the trains so far.
It rattled along at good pace (my rally speedo came to the fore) through quite lovely countryside
We next boarded the night train (14hrs) to Bangkok. I am sharing a nice little cabin with Robbie, one of the women on the trip. I luckily got the lower berth.
Breakfast this morning was fantastic – lots of Malaysian choices – I had the freshly made bean curd with a beautiful ginger syrup.
This morning we boarded the train to Kuala Lumpur. Some of us we just a tad dehydrated (not me). The train was very modern – we were in economy, but the seats were fine and there was a tuck shop if you wanted any food or drink. Most of the travellers were Malaysian. The scenery went from urban to rural quite quickly.
But as on our Road to Mandalay rally in Xena, the rural landscape now seems dominated by palm oil plantations. Jo and I noticed then how the smell of the chemicals used for palm oil processing was evident in many villages, although the plantations must have meant financial security for village people.
Arrived in Kuala Lumpur and headed out with fellow Peking to Paris mates, Eric and Sia (in their matching P2P t-shirts, first for a drink and then for a really scrumptious Malaysian meal.
Eric and Sia drove a beautiful old vintage Rolls Royce, called Brumby (which has a sister car in the foyer of the Alice Springs airport).
So wonderful to remember all the good and hard times. Sia and Eric’s car caught on fire just outside Ulan Bataar and went back there on a truck. After a week of repairs they drove day and night to catch up with the rally and eventually caught up in Russia. They finished the rally and won the Spirit of the Rally award.
History and Politics
Kuala Lumpur began in 1857 as an outpost at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers, when a group of 87 Chinese tin miners founded a settlement at what is now the suburb of Ampang. Despite 69 of them dying due to the pestilential conditions, a thriving tin mine was established. Kuala Lumpar literally means “muddy estuary” in Malay. It is the country’s largest urban area and its cultural, commercial, and transportation centre. Strategically commanding both river valleys, it flourished despite its malaria-infested jungle location. This naturally attracted merchants who traded basic provisions to the miners in exchange for some of the tin ( a bit like our very own Ophir and greater Central Otago). The town, spurred on by tin-mining, started to develop beside the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers with the Old Market Square (Medan Pasar) its commercial centre. Kuala Lumpur was very much a rough frontier town and commercial activities of included brothels, casinos and drinking saloons. While British colonial rule in Malaya began 1786, when the British East India Company took possession of the island of Penang, in 1874, Sultan Abdul Samad of Selangor accepted a British Resident in a system allowing the British to rule while the Sultan remained the head.
The development of the rubber industry in Selangor fueled by the demand for car tyres in the early 20th century led to a boom for KL which became the capital of Selangor.
Kuala Lumpur was occupied by Japanese from 11 January 1942 to 15 August 1945. The occupation of the city resulted in significant loss of lives; at least 5,000 Chinese were killed in Kuala Lumpur in just a few weeks of the occupation by Japanese forces, and thousands of Indians were sent as forced labour to work on the Burma Railway alongside POWS including many from NZ. A large number of prisoners died (data here).
After the Japanese surrendered, the British Military Administration returned to Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur was one of the first Malayan cities to hold an election.
Kuala Lumpur gained historical significance again in 1957 when the first Malayan flag was raised on the grounds of the cricket field, Merdeka Square, to mark the country’s independence from British rule.
Right after breakfast went in search of ground coffee. Travelling with an Aeropress, so I can have coffee on the train (apparently most of them have hot water available at the end of each carriage). About 200mtrs from the hotel was Bacha Coffee. 200gms of Peruvian espresso grind at some ridiculous price BUT, thinking this might make me the most popular girl on the trip
We met our tour guide, Bronny, this morning and our fellow travellers for a welcome meeting before we started our journey crossing the border to Johur Bahru in Malaysia. There are only 6 of us, which is great news from my point of view. Four of us are older women, there is an old bloke and a younger bloke of 25. The old bloke is leaving the tour in Luang Prabang – he’s been on lots of these adventures. All the women seem great. I thought they would all be Aussies , but not so.
Our train journey to Johor Bahru began in Singapore, with a bus journey out to Woodlands station and immigration. This was the first endurance test – about 20,000 steps later and through Singapore emigration and Malaysian immigration we were on the ten-minute train ride to Johor.
I am definitely the slowest. A couple of the women are hikers.
Last night was a bit of a booze up – I was very modest:1 gin and tonic and 1 glass of wine, but some of others got through many glasses of wine and buckets of beers.
History and Politics
Johor Bahru was founded in 1855 as Tanjung Puteri by Temenggong Daeng Ibrahim and renamed in 1866 by Sultan Abu Bakar, who modernized the state and introduced Malaya’s first written constitution. During his reign, the city witnessed modernisation from a fishing village, with the construction of administrative centres, offices, schools, and railways. While Britain had considerable influence in Malaya in the late 19thc, direct British colonial rule only came into effect in 1914 and with it a desire to unite Malay states into a pluralist Malaya. By then unregulated immigration meant that Malays were in the minority. During the 1920s and 30s, while there were nationally identified political movements, none really focused on independence. The 3 ethnic groups lived in separate communities reducing the conditions for ethnic conflict.
In January 1942, the Japanese invaded Malaya and advanced quicky south to Johor Bahru defeating British forces. Following bombings by the Japanese, the British retreated to Singapore and blew up the causeway the following day as a final doomed attempt to stop the Japanese advance in British Malaya. The British surrender took place on 15 February 1942, and a reign of terror began, particularly toward Chinese – many of whom were confined in concentration camps, with large-scale massacres in villages and settlements. Malays were blamed for cooperation with the enemy and Japanese policy also had the effect of fostering inter-racial conflict between Malays and Chinese. However, there was military engagement and sabotage against the Japanese, mainly organized by the Malayan Peoples’ Anti-Japanese Army (MPAJA).
After the Japanese surrender the British attempted to reunify Malaya and in 1948 the Federation of Malaysia was established. While elections were held, there was open dissent, tension between the need for indigenous Malay rights and equal rights for all Malaysian citizens and an attempted uprising. This political dissent has continued to this day – with debates around national identity. Malaysia could be characterised as a flawed democracy (which country isn’t) with corruption a central issue.
Such a vibrant, clean and bustling city, I sat was in Singapore in 2018, for the Road to Saigon rally with my mate Glenda.
After some confusion on arrival (the sign said ‘Nora Kirby’) I was picked up and taken to the hotel. There are serious traffic issues in Singapore, and it has this complicated one-way system, which means you circle around your destination – took about an hour and a half to get to the hotel (it was during rush hour).
This evening taken out to dinner by the lovely Andrew Webster, fellow competitor on the 2016 Peking to Paris rally, driving a 1969 Volvo 142 alongside Australian co-driver Kerry
Car 74. Kerry Finn(AUS) / Andrew Webster(SGP)1969 – Volvo 142 1940, Peking to Paris 2016., Peking to Paris 2016. Day 16. Omsk – Tyumen
We went to the Tanglin Club for dinner – an ancient Singapore (colonial) establishment. Food was superb and conversation wonderful about our rally memories , including trials and tribulations. Jo was mentioned fondly by Andrew as being completely fearless
I want to put this trip within an historical and political context, so you are all going have to bear with me each day.
Singapore was originally called Temasek, and subsequently successive ocean-dominated empires.
It became a trading outpost of the British Empire in the early 19th century and then in 1867, a British colony. Many older NZers had Dads who suffered as POWs under the Japanese occupation in WWII. In 1959, Singapore gained self-governance and complete independence in 1965.
From being a very poor nation, Singapore has now achieved the highest PPP-adjusted GDP per capita in the world, with high homeownership, long life-expectancy, low infant mortality and low levels of corruption. These enormous gains in development and wealth have come at a cost. While Singapore is constitutionally a democratic parliamentary republic it, in reality, functions as a de-facto one-party state which has resulted in limited political pluralism. A recent academic article (Tan & Preece, 2024) described the government as “relying on the law as a ‘fist in velvet glove’ to muzzle dissent and constrain information.”
Yay, after all this planning I am formally off on my journey. Great start to the day. My lovely neighbour, Bec, dropped me off at the Cromwell bus stop to get the shuttle to Queenstown airport. One hour later and still no shuttle. Rang the shuttle company – “operational issues”, so they got a taxi for the other passenger and me. Luckily, had a couple of hours up my sleeve. No doubt there will be more of this in the weeks to come.
Beautiful scenic flight to Auckland and later dinner in Ponsonby
Overnight in Auckland and then off to Singapore in the morning.
This is an epic adventure for me, part of my idea of traversing the globe by buses, boats and trains. This section is the epic overland journey from Singapore to Paris . I will traverse nearly half the globe from the tip of the Malay Peninsula to central Paris by trains (and I don’t mean the Orient Express). Some will be small regional trains, others long distance, high speed trains.
60 days and 15 Countries: 20 August 2026 to 20 October 2026
So – you all know me, I am a planner. So, first stop, online shopping from MapWorld in Christchurch.
Gear
Then, there’s insurance, visas, figuring out what to pack in a carryon and a day-pack for 60 days of travel, appointments for medicines and cortisone shots from my doctor Leon, the dogs sorted to go and stay with Jo, gear such as knee braces and walking poles to buy, packing cubes, techie stuff such as a global e-sim, trackers etc etc. I will let you know my thoughts on what worked and what didn’t when I put them all to the test.
