Author: teamxena

Day 21 was a lost day. By that I mean I packed up to leave the Sebel and then realised I was a day early. So decided to spend the day reading in preparation of writing a new journal article, as well as reviewing an article I have been assigned. It was quite nice being an academic again.

Day 22: up earlier than the last few days and checking out. Only time for a coffee before getting a taxi to rejoin the tour at the … mosque. I am a bit early so sitting on the bench i thought about the Christchurch mosque massacre. I was living in Sydney at the time but the day of the mass gathering, there was a call for NZ women to wear headscarves as a sign of solidarity. I wonder if the people here know about it?

Outside the mosque is a street selling mostly food, but very different from what we’ve seen so far. Wandered down and bought something very like the gozleme you get in Sydney. It was yummy.

Cannot believe how much better I feel. I can walk without coughing or wheezing and don’t need help with my luggage.

Next onto the train for a 3-hour trip to Jiayuguan. We are in a compartment with Chinese travellers this time

On our way i could see many military jets that were flying overhead and there was a landing strip and some kind of military base. Jiayuguan is a
completely manufactured city in the middle of the desert with no water. In the 1960s Mai decided that steel manufacturing was going to happen there so a steel plant in NE China was completely dismantled and it and its 60,000 (Han Chinese) workers were transposed to the desert in what were very harsh conditions. They lived underground until houses were built and water was brought down from the distant mountains. Being Han there are no pesky Tibetans or Muslims to make things difficult here

Now it is a city of 200,000 and is ‘green’. According to our guide, each tree has a salary of 350rmb pa for its upkeep. I’ll post more about this tomorrow.

Very ordinary dinner and early night

I am now thoroughly sick of talking about my health, so I have spent the day doing some research on Xining.

Xining has been a trade hub on the Northern Silk Road to Tibet for 2000 years. While Xining means ‘peace in the west’, as a frontier (and it still very much feels like this) it was a place of conflict, with incursions from Muslim warlords and from Tibet.  In the seventh century, Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty travelled through Xining on the Silk Road to marry King Songtsan Gampo of Tibet in a union that introduced Chinese culture to Tibet and opened up the Silk Road to centuries of flourishing trade.  

During the 7th and early 8th centuries the area was a centre of constant warfare.   \ In 763, it was overrun by the Tibetans until China recovered it in the 12^th century by the Song dynasty. 

Xining became an important religious centre for Gelug Buddhism, and the city has numerous temples.  

During the Republican era (1912-1949), after the collapse of the Qing dynasty, the  Ma clique, a powerful family of Hui Muslim generals, ruled Northwest China including Xining. They swore nominal allegiance to the central Republic of China (ROC) government while maintaining absolute autonomous control over the region. [During this period, Xining transitioned from a remote frontier outpost into a major geopolitical stronghold and was established as the official capital of the newly formed Qinghai Province in 1928.  

Ma Bufang (1938–1949) was he most famous, progressive, and ruthless of the rulers, ruling with an iron fist. He transformed Xining through aggressive modernization, implemented large-scale construction projects, introducing paved roads, modern buildings, and Xining’s first piped water and sewage system (purchased from the United States in 1947, promoted secular and military education, enforcing strict public sanitation and hygiene laws and introduced  textile manufacturing, wool spinning, and fur tanning. 

On September 5, 1949, the Communist People’s Liberation Army (PLA) captured Xining. Ma Bufang fled the country, the Ma Clique was dismantled, and the city was integrated into the newly declared People’s Republic of China.

During WWII Xining was bombed by the Japanese. Liberation occurred in 1949 when the PLA, having scored a major victory in Lanzhou, captured the city from Ma Bufang – the ruling Muslim warlord at the time.  He fled the country.

Because of its unique spot on the Tibetan plateau it became a crucial military and administrative site for the ‘peaceful liberation’ of Tibet, which marked the integration of Qinghai province into the new China. 

Xining then transformed into an industrialised city dominated by hydroelectric power. It is also one of the most polluted cities in China (more than Beijing). 

Xining is one of the more ethnically diverse cites in China.  Han Chinese residents represent 74.04% of the total population, while Hui (16.26%) and Tibetans (5.51%) (ref?). The city has been influenced considerably by Hui and Tibetan cultures. While Hui people speak Chinese as their primary language, they are Muslims and there are approximately 50 mosques in the urban area of Xining.  

However, Xining shows evidence of poverty and neglect which we haven’t seen so far on this tour.  These are issues associated with ethnic disadvantage and segregation, where spaces are segregated and ethnic minorities experience considerable social disadvantage. Grant (2017) argues that in multicultural cities like Xining the state (as it does elsewhere in the world) becomes nervous about ethnic minority bodies and places which can morph into an overbearing security state. The strongest evidence of this I have seen this trip was in Chendu, where our tour van drove through the Tibetan area which was crawling with cops. When I asked Hank the guide what was happening, he was very evasive.

Grant also argues that Tibetans also sense discrimination in Xining during periods of police crackdowns on unregistered ethnic minority migrants. More positively, he argues that despite restrictive laws, Tibetans across Xining perceive many urban Tibetan places and inhabit them as a Tibetan Xining. This was certainly true in terms of the area around the Tibetan temple we went to the other day. 

Today felt better although not hungry and decided to do my washing (there’s a machine in my apartment) then go for a walk to begin moving again. I found I could walk without wheezing, albeit slowly. I found a nice smallgoods store and bought some very yummy looking snacks and a couple of boxed noodles for dinners. On the way back I passed a really horrible pet-store full of caged puppies, all yapping and howling. I couldn’t bring myself to take a photo. In fact, i realised that I had heard the yapping from my hotel last night. 

I stopped at the hotel coffee shop for a very good espresso with hot milk on the side. It was good to be back in the world. 

Next l had a bowl of chicken broth (including chicken feet). Yummy.

I then tried to find my way back to my apartment. We have been told by Bronny our tour guide to take the hotel address card so if you get list you can show someone. I never expected to get lost inside the hotel. Like an idiot, in desperation, I had to ask the concierge to help me back to my room.  I could tell he thought I was losing my grip. Anyway, I made it, and had another quiet afternoon and evening. Each day I feel better, but I realise i am going to have to be careful to make it to the finish. Thank goodness no more high altitudes

I stayed in bed most of the day recuperating with the ‘do not disturb’ sign on. But first I thought I’d order breakfast as I was beginning to feel hungry again. I ordered the must yummy French breakfast imaginable

Then the fun began. After 4 attempts at room service they finally sent some poor bugger up to my room with her version of ‘google translate’ (GT) even though the menu was in English and Chinese. The poor woman – the negotiations for choosing orange juice, granola, and scrambled eggs took us half an hour.

Then up came the food (or at least some of it – the continental part, which looked scrumptious). I used my GT to ask where the rest of the full French was? He was utterly confused. Off he went and came back with the scrambled eggs but no bacon, sausages and tomato. I gave him back the scrambled eggs and asked him to bring it all together so it was hot. Some time later while I was tucking into the lovely cold stuff it came back (less the tomatoes- but I was not going to complain) plus he triumphantly gave me an omelet as well as the scrambled eggs (my arteries hardened in anticipation). But the saga was far from over. He brought with him a mobile card machine (you do not have room charging in China) It asked for a 6 digit pin. I used GT to explain that we only have 4 digit pins. Off he went and got another machine – same problem. Then a very officious glowering woman came up with another machine which also demanded a 6 digit pin. I began to wonder if I would be thrown out of the hotel. No one asked for cash. An hour or so later another woman arrived with a new machine that did not ask for a pin. Bingo. I put on the do not disturb sign. The breakfast lasted for lunch and dinner. What I subsequently learned was that you just add 2 00s to your existing. I’ll try that next time☺️

I stayed in bed most of the day recuperating with the ‘do not disturb’ sign on. But first I thought I’d order breakfast as I was beginning to feel hungry again. I ordered the must yummy French breakfast imaginable

Then the fun began. After 4 attempts at room service they finally sent some poor bugger up to my room with her version of ‘google translate’ (GT) even though the menu was in English and Chinese. The poor woman – the negotiations for choosing orange juice, granola, and scrambled eggs took us half an hour.

Then up came the food (or at least some of it – the continental part, which looked scrumptious). I used my GT to ask where the rest of the full French was? He was utterly confused. Off he went and came back with the scrambled eggs but no bacon, sausages and tomato. I gave him back the scrambled eggs and asked him to bring it all together so it was hot. Some time later while I was tucking into the lovely cold stuff it came back (less the tomatoes- but I was not going to complain) plus he triumphantly gave me an omelet as well as the scrambled eggs (my arteries hardened in anticipation). But the saga was far from over. He brought with him a mobile card machine (you do not have room charging in China) It asked for a 6 digit pin. I used GT to explain that we only have 4 digit pins. Off he went and got another machine – same problem. Then a very officious glowering woman came up with another machine which also demanded a 6 digit pin. I began to wonder if I would be thrown
out of the hotel. No one asked for cash. An hour or so later another woman arrived with a new machine that did not ask for a pin. Bingo. I put on the do not disturb sign. The breakfast lasted for lunch and dinner. What I subsequently learned was that you just add 2 00s to your existing. I’ll try that next time☺️

Not much to report on Day 15. We don’t have much time in Chengdu and leaving Kunming at 6am spent the morning and early afternoon on the train. Today we were in first class and got a little breakfast box as well as a bigger seat with more legroom.  

The scenery has changed and the train as gotten faster (262 kmph)

Off the train to meet up with the new guide, ‘Hank’ and then off to lunch.  I am still coughing so decided to have the evening off as I want to be race fit for Tibet in 2 days time. 

Our hotel is quite posh so can order room service. Ordered a hamburger and chips rather hesitantly but it was delicious. The view from my room is wonderful.

Day 16: pandas and the train to Xining. 

Up early – lovely congee with pickled mushrooms for breakfast before getting on our bus to the panda sanctuary park.  

The pandas were amazing – particularly the red pandas.  They are the cutest little characters and I liked them more than the giant pandas

On the other hand, the giant pandas are complete doofus. They climb trees and go out limbs that can’t bear their weight and crash to the ground. Then they do it all over again

I bought Morag a red panda ( no point buying one for Geordie as he will destroy it immediately). She is enjoying the journey with me. 

After yet another delicious lunch we joined the scrum and boarded the train to Xining. Trains are very comfortable in China and have European toilets. This is a long journey from Chengdu (8 or 9 hrs). The countryside from the train window. is very different – more like a desert. We are constantly going through long tunnels.

I am about to start taking diamox twice a day – a prophylaxis to prevent (or treat) altitude sickness (Xining is 2275 mtrs) and we will climb the next night to Lhasa(4-5,000 mtrs).

Xining

Xining has all the appearance of a frontier town. It is much grittier and poorer than all the other cities, and has a much greater number of minority ethnic groups.

We are staying at the worst hotel of the trip. Although the rooms were OK, breakfast was inedible. By today I am starting to have trouble breathing and cannot walk without wheezing. I have taken a whole course of amoxicillin but it hasn’t made a dent on the chest infection. Bronny and I sit down for a difficult conversation, and decide that I should not go to any higher altitude (to Lhasa) and instead go to the A&E. I had a bit of cry as Lhasa was going to be one of the highlights of the trip. They will be there for 3 days and then return to Xining, and I will rejoin the tour. In the meantime I will change hotels and get better.

So the only thing I got see a little bit was a teashop where a very kind woman made me beautiful floral green tea and would not take any money and the ground floor of the Qinghai Tibetan Culture Museum which holds an incredible display of Himalayan art, including the world’s longest Thangka scroll.  It was incredibly beautiful and reminded me of the Institute of the Arab World in Paris.

Next say goodbye to my tour mates and off to A&E.

I spent the next 6 hours having tests and being given oxygen and put on a drip loaded with drugs. The hospital was pretty ordinary, but the staff were competent, although no one told me what was happening to me – even though I had a lovely guide and translator (‘Pandora’ – who knew about Pandora’s box). It also cost what is an arm and leg for Chinese people (NZD350) and Pandora told me this was the charge for everyone, not just foreigners. Released after 6 hours and told to come back in 3 days for another load of intravenous drugs.

The only redeeming feature of the day was I booked the Sofitel (at a mere NZD114 a night). Got there and it was an apartment. It will be OK for 4 nights

Kunming is a large (8million people) vibrant city.  It is very well kept with flowers everywhere. It is a lovely summer’s day. Much less humid here and around  25c.   Now been on the tour for 2 weeks and loving it, even though I’ve been sick in the last few days.

Today we drove outside Kunming to visit the Stone Forest. 

I think it is elderly outing day – but boy can those old people push and scramble to be first in line for the shuttle!!!!

Lovely walk under the trees to the main start. There is a beautiful abandoned art deco house that belonged to the governor in the 1930s. 

Best latte so far on the trip made by a young barrista, with a lovely side of what is called eggplant fruit in English. 

I bought a hat for 19rmb $5). Even in this tourist spot (1 million visitors a year) the prices are reasonable. 

The Stone Forest is amazing – beautiful limestone formed by a shallow sea 270 million years ago. Extensive deposits of sandstone overlaid by limestone accumulated in this basin until the region shifted upward. Later, exposure to wind and running water shaped these limestone pillars. These formations extend as far as the eye can see. They look like a vast forest of stone, hence the name .

There were the cutest (rather Confucianist) signs everywhere

Afternoon off to rest and do some washing. Nice dinner with Lay, one of the lovely women on the tour. We had long beans with oyster sauce , pancakes and crispy fried shrimp. Followed by an amazing bean cake (with whole red beans inside rather than paste) for pudding

Lay was born in Singapore but has lived in Toronto since she was 23.  A sweet little 6 year old Chinese girl came and introduced herself to me in English (her English was excellent)

History of Kunming and Yunnan Province

Kunming has a history spanning many thousands of years. There is evidence of human activity around Dianchi Lake which dates back over 30,000 years. In the 3rd Century BC the local Dian civilisation wete famous for advanced bronze craftsmanship. Around 100 BC the region was integrated into imperial China as an important frontier outpost. But in 1253 Kublai Khan captured the region and ruled for 20 years 

The Yuan Dynasty in 1276 officially gave the city its current name and made it the administrative capital of Yunnan Province and became a military hub. 

During what the Chinese call the 2nd Sino-Japanese War (1937–1945) Kunming became a vital safe rear base for China, and the city served as the terminus for the strategic Burma Rd (1154 km long). The road was built in 1937-8, using only hand tools by 200,000 Chinese labourers(women, children and old men- as the men were fighting the Japanese), as young men all went to war) during the Second Sino-Japanese War to bring supplies to help China resist the Japanese invasion.

Kunming was liberated in 1950 – a year later than most of China.  

This is what a poster at the Stone Forest tells us about its liberation- in slightly mangled English but you can easily understand what it is saying

Off to Chengdu next – gay capital of China, features in my collaboration with my lovey Chinese colleagues at Tsinghua University many moons ago:

Worth, H., Jing, J., McMillan, K., Su, C., Fu, X., Yuping, Z., … & Youchun, Z. (2017). “Under the same quilt”: The paradoxes of sex between men in the cultural revolution. Journal of Homosexuality, 64(1), 61-74.

Worth, H., Jun, J., McMillan, K., Chunyan, S., Xiaoxing, F., Yuping, Z., … & Youchun, Z. (2019). ‘There was no mercy at all’: Hooliganism, homosexuality and the opening-up of China. International Sociology, 34(1), 38-57.

Our hotel is very funny. It is obviously not catering to tourists – all the notices are in Chinese. As you enter your room a disembodied woman’s voice speaks to you in Chinese.  I assume she is welcoming you.  She is very annoying but if you say ‘be quiet’ in a stern voice she shuts up.  I think it must be my tone as I would be surprised if she spoke English.

I also shared the lift with a robot which was a bit concerning when it followed me to reception. I think it is the head of housekeeping. Tries the same voice as with the woman in my room, but it took no notice

On the road again, to yet another temple. Quite a large one on lots of land. Much more restrained than the Laotian ones.

I liked the men there being religious in a rather conspicuous way

There were some very beautiful slate pavers (the numbers have something to do with auspicious days to lay them)

Next  – to Green Lake where there are some very beautiful bonsai.

Then to lunch at a very local restaurant and the best meal of the trip so far. All the dishes were great and all but one vegetarian. Total cost RMB130 (about $32 for 7 of us)

Next to a local hillside park and an uphill climb.  My coughing and wheezing prevented me doing it, but I sat in the shade under the trees and enjoyed a quiet time. 

Dinner tonight was another great meal dominated by mushrooms – Kunming’s delicacy. There was also very good roast duck.

After dinner we were serenaded by a group of locals in costume.

All in all a much better day than the previous day but an early night beckons

Day 11 was a wipeout for me as i was coughing horribly  and decided to spend the day in bed gobbling amoxicillin and drinking water   Sadly (Alan Graham take note) i missed the trip to the rice wine distillery.  Staying in bed, however, was most beneficial as I woke up this morning feeling much better.  

Goodbye Laos – lovely country – or as Manu in Off the Grid,  says about NZ “ah Laos”.

Day 12: Leisurely morning and then on the train to Kunming – our first stop in China.  Kunming is the wild mushroom capital of China and I can still remember the taste of them from the last time i was here (which was in about 2008) with colleagues from Tsinghua University. 

The train station is a part of the Chinese belt and road initiative. We build your trains and stations and you are in debt to us for many many years. And of course the train station roof is leaking like a sieve – big red buckets everywhere.  This train trip is also different to the last more carefree ones. We were grilled by the train guard about our lack of visas (we don’t need them). move passage down). However , the seats are comfy and the view from the train spectacular

Apart from the bureaucracy, this is the slowest high-speed train I have ever been on – around 35kmh. At this rate the 650km will take us 25 hours. 

Looking out the window there have been huge slips and trucks bogged in the mud. One house was floating down the river. This might explain the slow speed. 

Border crossings are mostly an hour of hell – a scrum with no regard for the elderly etc. 

Finally, arrived in Kunming after midnight  and taken to our hotel. Late start tomorrow.

I can’t believe I have already been gone 10days – only another 53 to go.

Early start to the newly Chinese built station and on to the new fast Chinese train. 

I bought these very weird yak yoghurt kiwifruit (how could I resist) lollies. They are not bad but I won’t do it again.

Only 2 hours to Luang Prabang – much of it through tunnels. But the countryside is spectacular

Luang Prabang is gorgeous – a UNESCO site. And our hotel is definitely the best so far – fourposter bed and all.  

Very full day. Off to see a waterfall but not before a snack  – an amazing croissant and flat white.  There are things you really miss from home

Then to a silk craft centre and lunch.  One thing I am learning about Laos is when they warn you a dish is spicy it really, really is.  I had the spicy papaya salad and it blew my head off (in a good way).

Next home for a rest while the mad keen hikers walked up a hill to see the sunset. Then out for the most bland dinner I have had since leaving home (obviously catering for tourist palates).  

I now have a phlegmy cough ( I am the third one in the group down) so am straight into the antibiotics and will take it easy tomorrow. 

I haven’t said much about my fellow travellers: 

Bronny is our guide and she is very calm and organised – we have WhatsApp group and get our ‘instructions’ each morning. You do not have to do all the activities which is great as I am the slowest and most unfit in the group

There is Lay, who was originally from Singapore but has lived in Canada since she was 23

Lucy is a recently retired Prof from the University of Western Scotland.  

Robbie is a nurse from Bunderberg in Queensland.  Also just retired. 

Then we have David who is the oldest (I think 80) and is retired but volunteers for an eye charity in Cambodia.  He is leaving us tomorrow

The last and youngest is Max – all-round lovely, young man who doesn’t seem to mind hanging out with oldies like the rest of us.  

I am finding a small group fine but I do like having some time on my own each day